Step off the great square of Jemaa el-Fnaa in Marrakesh and within a minute the city closes around you. Narrow lanes covered with reed screens split and twist in every direction, lined with stalls selling pyramids of spices, piles of slippers, brass lanterns and woven rugs. For first-time visitors, the souks can feel overwhelming. With a little preparation, they are one of the most rewarding markets in the world.
Getting lost is part of the plan
The souks of the medina are a maze, and even locals give directions by landmarks rather than street names. Instead of fighting it, give yourself a few hours with no fixed plan. Note the name of a nearby mosque or square, and remember that most main lanes eventually lead back to Jemaa el-Fnaa.
Offline maps on your phone help, but signal can be weak under the covered lanes. Be polite but firm with people who offer to show you the way, as many expect payment afterwards.
How to bargain
Prices in the souks are rarely fixed, and bargaining is expected. Start by asking the price, then offer roughly a third to half of it, and meet somewhere in between. Stay friendly, take your time and accept a glass of mint tea if it is offered.
Only start bargaining if you genuinely want the item, and if the price does not feel right, walk away with a smile. Often the seller will call you back.
What to bring home
- Spices: cumin, paprika, saffron and the local blend ras el hanout. Buy from busy stalls and in small quantities.
- Argan oil, for cooking or cosmetics, ideally from a cooperative.
- Leather goods such as bags and the classic pointed slippers called babouches.
- Metal lanterns, which pack flat more easily than you might think.
- Handwoven rugs, for which you should allow plenty of time and check shipping costs.
Practical tips
Visit in the morning, when the lanes are cooler and calmer. Wear comfortable shoes, carry small notes and coins, and keep valuables in a front pocket. Many stalls close or slow down during prayer times, and some shut on Friday afternoons.
As the light fades, head back to Jemaa el-Fnaa, where food stalls, musicians and storytellers take over the square, and the lanterns of the souks begin to glow behind you.
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