Location scouts love Italy’s hill towns for a reason: the stone lanes, terracotta roofs and soft morning light look as if they were designed for a camera. The most famous ones are now packed from spring to autumn, but there are quieter towns where you can still have a piazza almost to yourself. Here are three for a long weekend.
Spello, Umbria
Built on the slope of Mount Subasio, Spello is a maze of pale pink stone, flower boxes and steep alleys that open suddenly onto views across the valley. Walk through its Roman gates early in the morning, before the day-trippers arrive, and look for the Renaissance frescoes in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. In late spring the town is known for its flower carpets, laid through the streets overnight; in autumn it is calm, and the olive harvest begins.
Bevagna, Umbria
A few kilometers away on the valley floor, Bevagna is flat, small and wonderfully unhurried. Its main square, with two Romanesque churches facing each other, feels like a stage waiting for actors. The town keeps medieval crafts alive, from paper making to candle making, and several small workshops welcome visitors. The remains of a Roman bath, with a mosaic floor of sea creatures, are a short walk from the square.
Pitigliano, Tuscany
In southern Tuscany, Pitigliano seems to grow straight out of a cliff of volcanic tufa, its houses built on the very edge. Arrive at dusk for the classic view from the road below. The town has a long Jewish history, and its old synagogue and small museum are well worth an hour. Nearby, the Vie Cave are ancient Etruscan paths cut deep into the rock, shaded and mysterious, ideal for a morning walk.
Getting there and timing
All three are easiest with a rental car. Spello and Bevagna can share one base, while Pitigliano is about two hours’ drive to the southwest. October and early November bring mild days, fresh olive oil and far fewer visitors than summer, although many small restaurants close one day a week, so check ahead.
Stay overnight. These towns change completely once the last tour bus leaves and the locals take back the square.
Chiara Benedetti, travel writer
Pack comfortable shoes: these are towns of steps, cobbles and steep lanes, and the best views always seem to be at the top.
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