On a misty morning, the view from the cliffs at Zhangjiajie looks almost unreal. Thousands of narrow sandstone pillars, some more than 200 meters tall, rise from a sea of green forest, their tops crowned with pine trees and wrapped in drifting cloud. It is no wonder this landscape in China’s Hunan province has inspired painters, poets and filmmakers.
What you are seeing
The pillars are part of the Wulingyuan Scenic Area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992. They are made of quartz sandstone, shaped over millions of years by water, frost and plant roots that split the rock along vertical cracks, leaving the blocks between them standing as towers. At the heart of the area is Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, the first national forest park in China.
When to go
Spring, from April to early June, and autumn, from September to early November, bring mild temperatures and the best chance of the mist that makes the pillars look like floating islands. Summer is hot, humid and the busiest season, while winter is cold but quiet, and a dusting of snow on the peaks is spectacular.
Avoid China’s national holidays if you can, especially the first week of October and the early May holiday, when queues for buses and lifts can last hours.
How to avoid the crowds
- Start early. The first two hours after the gates open are the quietest and often the mistiest.
- Walk. Most visitors ride the park buses, the cable cars and the glass Bailong Elevator built into a cliff. Trails such as the Golden Whip Stream path along the valley floor are calm by comparison.
- Stay nearby. Entry tickets are usually valid for several days, so you can explore one area per day and return to the busiest viewpoints late in the afternoon.
- Go further. Tianzi Mountain and the quieter corners of Yangjiajie see far fewer visitors than the famous Yuanjiajie viewpoints.
Most people rush to the same three viewpoints by bus. Walk for twenty minutes in any direction and you can have the forest almost to yourself.
Lin Wen, local trekking guide
Practical tips
Wear good walking shoes: many trails are long flights of stone steps. Carry rain gear even on clear days, as the weather changes quickly, and keep food out of sight, because the park’s macaques are bold and fast. Zhangjiajie city has an airport and rail links, and Wulingyuan town at the park entrance has plenty of guesthouses. Allow at least two full days, and three if you would rather walk than ride.
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